More Zippers – Invisible zippers with no lining

invisible zipper

invisible zipper

Given a choice of what kind of zipper I put in a garment, I will always reach for an invisible one.  I like the way they disappear into the seam. Whether it’s in the back, on the side, or up the front, only the zipper pull gives any indication there’s a zipper. I learned how to insert them in 1973 when I was making my honeymoon clothes. My zippers got worn in a hospital, at a church picnic, in district and superior court, and at the birth of twin polar bears. Not the honeymoon we had planned, but my zippers looked good.

I also choose invisible zippers because they are so easy to sew in. You do need an invisible zipper foot to do it easily and well. It’s not an expensive foot, and if you don’t want to buy one especially made for your machine, the generic ones work quite well. An invisible zipper foot has a channel in the bottom for the zipper teeth to slide through, and most have a piece on the front that holds the teeth down flat as you sew. Mine looks like this –

Invisible Zipper Foot

Invisible Zipper Foot

The first thing that’s different about sewing an invisible zipper is you don’t sew the seam before you put the zipper in. The seam gets sewn after you put the zipper in. Finish your seams before you begin sewing in the zipper.

Finish your seams

Finish your seams

If you need to shorten the zipper, you do it the same way we did last week.

 

 

 

 

 

Either use a glue stick or put a strip of wash-away basting tape in the seam allowance on the right side of the fabric on one pattern piece.

Wash away tape

Wash away tape

Open the zipper and press one side of the zipper onto the seam allowance face down.  The zipper should be placed so the right side of the zipper as you look at it face up is on the right side of the garment and the left side of the zipper is on the left.

Zipper taped down

Zipper taped down

 

 

 

 

 

 

Position the zipper foot so the zipper teeth are in the groove and the piece on the front is pushing the teeth down if you have a foot like that. Move the needle so it enters the zipper close to the teeth but not in them.

Zipper in the groove of your zipper foot as you sew

Zipper in the groove of your zipper foot as you sew

Sew down the side of the zipper almost to, but not past the zipper pull.

 

At the end of the zipper

At the end of the zipper

 

 

Secure your stitches and cut the threads.

 

 

Glue or tape on the other pattern piece

Glue or tape on the other pattern piece

 

 

Run the glue stick or the tape down the other pattern piece. Press the zipper into place, making sure your pattern pieces are aligned.

 

 

Second side of the zipper in place

Second side of the zipper in place

 

 

 

 

 

 

Put your zipper foot over the zipper and move the needle into place.

Needle moved over

Needle moved over

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sew down the zipper stopping at the same point at the end of the zipper. Secure your threads and cut them.

Stop in the same place

Stop in the same place

 

 

 

 

 

 

Zip the zipper closed.  You might have to run the pull up and down a couple of times to get it runnig smoothly.

Zipper closed

Zipper closed

 

 

 

 

 

 

Put the regular zipper foot on your machine.

Starting at the bottom of the garment sew the seam closed. Stop a 1/2″ to an inch past where you stopped sewing the zipper in.

DSC_0051 DSC_0052

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Press your seam open being careful not to melt your zipper.

Press your seam open

Press your seam open

 

How easy was that?

 

I sometimes interface an invisible zipper the same way I interfaced the regular zipper last week, but since the goal is to have the zipper disappear, unless the fabric is likely to fray or get caught in the zipper, I skip it.

invisible zipper

invisible zipper

I had planned to move to zippers in lined garments next week, but since we have so many new boy patterns recently released, I’m going to do zippers in flies first.  Not as easy as this is, but not hard.

 

 

Advertisements
This entry was posted in Zippers and tagged , . Bookmark the permalink.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s